Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW23 Part II

Paris Men’s Fashion Week continues to showcase some of the best fall winter 2023-24 menswear looks. Check out our picks of the season!

Loewe

Minimalism was the undercurrent at Loewe Mens AW23 where a white room was dominated by three artworks created by Julien Nguyen with the use of copper and vellum as a base. That was a hint of what followed — as the looks were sent out, a striking coat handcrafted by artisans using with copper was worn over a satin gold blouse and white shorts. Definitely one of the hottest standout looks of the season. Per Vogue, “Jonathan Anderson’s exploration of essentialism — clothes rigorously inspected and stripped back to their reduced form — mediates on the skew-whiff and the surreal. There’s a peculiarity in his purity. “ Striking looks include full metal jackets beaten by artisans from copper and pewter; short, back-fastened silk shirts (some worn with shorts and leather boots); long leather coats, faux fur coats with fluid sleeves, jackets hammered from chainmail and cowl-neck wool outerwear.

Dries Van Noten

Couture met rave at Dries Van Noten in the eleventh arrondissement in Paris, where guests walked into a parking lot where at each floor, they met musicians strumming techno beats. A synthesiser and a set of electric drums added to the theatrical set. In stark contrast, the collection featured rigorously tailored blazers and pea coats worn with slouchy printed pants, fine knits or lace-y tops. The standout look was a double-breasted brown wool overcoat with exaggerated shoulders and a nipped-in waist. “We worked a lot on the silhouette, so you have this very precise shape in the tailoring of this coat,” Raf Simons told Vogue. “The narrow waist hints also at a historical aspect.” Looks suited for a rave were linen pants, floral printed jackets, bombers, puffers and draped sweatshirts.

Kenzo

At Kenzo, Japanese designer Nigo sent out a globally relevant menswear line that seamlessly fused influences from American varsity and work wardrobe, martial arts and British outdoor gear. Holding it all together, though, was rigorous garment construction and delicate Japanese fabrics. The result was impeccable looks that made the transition from day to evening. We loved the suit jackets without collars and lapels, pleated wool trousers, striped shirts, wide-sleeve fleece jackets with sashiko embroidery and cropped varsity jacket. The standout was a goldfish-embroidered kimono-look bomber that only Kenzo could have got right. So it’s no surprise that the autumn winter ’23 collection was well received by fashion editors and critics. Per Vogue, “Nigo’s reflections on ’60s British subculture evolved into a study of the heritage country wardrobe – backed up by a collaboration with Hunter that included field jackets and wellies adorned with Kenzo’s boke flower – and the associations that naturally follow: the tartans of the Highlands and their punk interpretations, a road that had to lead to the late Dame Vivienne Westwood…”